Kitchen cabinets that are just dated you can stain them without stripping the finish
If your kitchen has those old golden oak cabinets and you are just tired of them…you don’t have to replace them, you can stain them. Now to stain them you don’t have strip them to get that new look. Here is how. Sand down the cabinet, going with the grain of the wood (about 150 grit). Then wash the cabinet down with TSP and allow it to dry. Now a apply sealer that is like a glue that will hold the stain. Allow the sealer to dry even though it will still be tacky. Apply a gel stain with a 2” brush and continue to get the desired look. This process will really only work when going from a light to a dark color. Applying a protective finish is the last part of the project.
What is going on when you have a rush of cold air coming through your bathroom exhaust fan?
If you have a bathroom exhaust fan and you are getting a rush of cold air through it when it is not in use, you may have a lost or broken damper. This fan is vented to the outside of the house and there is a thin damper or louver on the end of the pipe to prevent cold air from entering your home. When the wind blows against the damper it prevents the draft from entering the home but if the louvers are broken or the damper is missing you got an uncomfortable problem. These dampers can be replaced or the entire piece that penetrates through the wall can be replaced to eliminate this problem. Bathrooms fans should always be vented outside of the home to prevent warm moist air being blown into the attic create moisture and possible mold in the attic area.
It can be a real pain when the dishwasher won’t drain!
There are many problems you may encounter when owning a home but one that really grinds things to a halt is when the dishwasher will not drain properly.
If your dishwasher is not draining properly, the drain hose may be stopped up. To check, remove all the water from tub. A Wet-Vac works well for this. After the water is gone remove the drain hose (even though you removed the water you will still have water in the pump so be ready) from the house plumbing and the dishwasher. Check for obstructions and remove. If you just installed new garbage disposal check that the metal knockout was removed. Check the air gap and make sure it is not clogged with debris or the high loop, if this is not right your dishwasher will siphon water back into it.
We all seem to like ceramic tile but a lot of us are intimidated about installing it.
We all seem to like ceramic tile but a lot of us are intimidated about installing it. You got cement boards and mortar and that can spell trouble. I found a product that can take the mystery out of ceramic tile installation it is called Bondera. Bondera will add to the beauty and value of custom tile to your home by doing it yourself. No special tools needed. No more waiting for messy mortar or mastic to dry. Bondera is a double sided, peel and stick adhesive perfect for counter & wall tile. Just peel, stick on the Bondera to the surface to be tiled, Stick the tile to the Bondera and grout and you're ready to enjoy your new tile.
Use Bondera on any clean, flat, stable surface. Beautify a backsplash or to a shower.
With the economy still being a little on the weak side I am seeing some old time products come back into the lime light. For instance, back in the 70’s and early 80’s people used Antiquing Kits to refinish cabinets and furniture. This was a quick and inexpensive means to create a new and fresh look. Since the one area in our home that always seems to be a focal point, the kitchen and the cabinets are like furniture in this room.New cabinets or refaced cabinets can be expensive and painted cabinets are just a solid color and faux painting takes skill. So we go back in time and redress the Antique kits.The new product is called; Cabinet Transformation and is a viable alternative to just painting the cabinets. The kit gives you a Deglosser for the surface which is step one and then the base coat is applied.A glaze is then applied and partially wiped off before the protective finish is applied. It is a simple cost effective alternative.
There are three types of Corian® countertop finishes: matte/satin, semi-gloss and high-gloss*. Most countertops are finished with a matte/satin finish. All Corian® sinks have a matte/satin finish. Soapy water, ammonia based cleaners (not window cleaners as they can leave a waxy build up that may dull the surface) or commercially available solid surface cleaners will remove most dirt and residue from all types of finishes. Stubborn residue will require a little stronger cleaner.
Follow the recommendations below to properly clean your countertop and sink.
Experience has shown that a film builds up on the surface if water is left to dry on the countertop. This film will dull the look of the countertop making the finish appear blotchy and uneven. To prevent build up of the film, it is very important to wipe the countertop completely dry after spills and cleaning
There are areas in the bathroom that should be inspected to make sure they are in good shape and water damage has not occurred.The first area is around the toilet. There is a wax ring under the toilet base that when worn, will allow water to seep onto the floor, this in turn will rot out the sub floor.The caulking around the tub, around the faucet handles and the caulking where the tub or shower pan meets the floor.Make sure this not cracked, missing or pulled away from the surfaces. Caulking that is in bad repair will allow water to damage the floor and sub floor.Make sure the bathroom fan works.It is important that the high humidity is removed from the room after showers and baths.
What's cookin' in the kitchen? The latest decor trends
In the zone "The kitchen triangle is such a misnomer. It was a concept developed during the Depression, when there was one person in the kitchen running from sink to fridge to stove. Now, there are dishwashing, food preparation, storage and pantry zones. As the hub of the home, the kitchen is shared by more family members; how we work in our kitchens has changed." -- Paula Arsens, Paula Arsens Kitchen Design, VancouverFood for thought "I liken kitchen design to shopping for a car. First, we choose the body style -- the overall look, including cabinetry. Then we go for the options -- the user-oriented technology like hands-free faucets and soap dispensers, and fl ashy cappuccino machines and steam ovens. The new reality is that you can have a kitchen with the elegance of a Bentley, and major technology backing up the style." -- David Overholt, David Overholt Interior Design, Toronto
A whole new glass "Glass is huge, and in a whole new way. Back-painted glass backsplashes have a sleek, glossy look that works well with both traditional and modern cabinetry. The glass should run from the underside of the upper cabinets right down to the countertop. Kick it up a notch and add under-cabinet lighting for a look that's both sophisticated and dramatic. And pick your own paint colours or use other materials behind the glass, like wallpaper, fabric or artwork. Your imagination is the only limit!" -- Jenny Martin, Pure Design Firm, Victoria
Tracks & glides "There have been huge advances in kitchen hardware technology, specifically sliding tracks and glides. These are being used in soft-close and self-closing drawers up to an astounding width of 120 centimetres, sliding and lift-up doors in cabinetry, and drawers in appliances." -- Erica Westeroth, XTC Kitchen Design, Toronto
Tech talk "The most exciting development in kitchens is the evolution of technology. Everything from incorporating TVs and computers to landing pads for charging cellphones and Blackberrys." -- Paul Lavoie, Paul Lavoie Interior Design, Calgary
Keep it simple "Simplicity dominates -- even traditional kitchens have fewer fussy details to visually clutter the space. Lines are clean and angular. Finishes are clearer, without muddy paste glazes." -- Robin Siegerman, Sieguzi Interior Designs, Toronto
Variety is the spice of life "We're no longer stuck with only three wood species for the kitchen. For cabinets, there are some fantastic exotic woods available. Glass is being used in beautiful ways -- backsplashes, countertops and even floors. There are translucentresin panels with embedded seagrass, which can be backlit on islands or backsplashes." -- Robin Siegerman, Sieguzi Interior Designs, Toronto
Well there's all different types of countertops we're using in the kitchen nowadays, manmade quartz, granite, which by the way, needs to be sealed. also solid surface products like this, and also formica countertops. Now, I want to focus in on the solid surface products, products like corian. Over the years, this counter, it's about eight years old, and it has kind of a dull finish. You can get a professional come in and buff that out and make it brand new again. But it also requires a little maintenance on your part. Corian, a solid surface product does not need to be sealed. But it does need to be cleaned and it's always nice to put a little bit of sheen on it. Found a great little product, and you can find this at the hardware store. It's a countertop product. It'll cut through cooking grease, it's streak free, and at the same time it creates a little bit of polish on the countertop. Very easy to use. And I recommend, that if you have a solid surface product, to get a product like this, unless you're going to have it totally refinished by a professional. Because it does, as you can see, give it a nice new look. You can also like I said, use this on formica. Stay away from using it on the floor, or it will get slippery. One other thing, granite countertops, they must be sealed. Make sure you get it sealed. In fact you can use that product to seal it if you'd like.
Everybody probably has their problem drain in their home. It seems to always get clogged up with gunk and hair and usually about every two months I have to attack the problem. I found a couple of products that work great. First of all is this little guy. In a lot of cases, snaking a drain out is the best way to unclog it. But in this particular drain you've got one of those pop-up drain plugs, and I know a lot of you don't necessarily disconnect it to snake it out, so. What this little zip strip does, it's got little barbs on the end of it, you just take it and funnel it down into the drain. And those barbs will connect onto tissue and hair and pull it straight up. Now the reason you're not seeing a whole lot is I just snaked this out last night. It was once again a problem. Also, not a big fan of drain cleaners, but I have to tell you, these new gel drain cleaners work great. I'm about four for four with them with hair clogs in the drain. It's a gel, you pour it into the drain, let it sit about ten minutes. Like I said, four for four isn't a bad batting average.
Mix a small amount of filler with cream hardener (6 parts filler to 1 part hardener). Spread the filler into the damaged area. Allow the filler to dry for 10 minutes.
Use #100 grit sandpaper to "wet" sand the filler until it is level with the rest of the fixture. Then use #220, #400, #600 and #1000 sandpaper to "wet" sand the repair area until it is smooth.
Dry your repair with a hair dryer to pull out any moisture before applying finish paint.
Apply one drop of base paint to your fixture with your finger. If the color matches, then no tint mixing is required. Wipe off the test area with a paper towel. If the color does not match, refer to our color matching instructions for tint mixing and color matching.
After matching the color, pour paint into atomizer and shake thoroughly. Spray paint on repair and allow to dry 24 hours. Buff repair to bring out shine and blend it in with the rest of your fixture.
If the icemaker seems to be in good physical condition, but the ice mold is still empty, you may have a frozen icemaker fill tube or a bad water inlet valve. A hair dryer on low can be used to thaw a frozen fill tube, and if you determine the tube to be clear, a new inlet valve may do the trick.
If your icemaker leaks or the ice cubes are hollow, it may be a water flow problem due to a bad water inlet valve. Another source may be the self-tapping shutoff valves that are commonly used on house supply pipes for the icemaker water line. Replacing the self-tapping valve with a drill-style like this: Non-self piercing water valve can solve and prevent many icemakers issues.
If you notice that the ice mold is in bad shape, and the non-stick coating is peeling and corroded, it’s probably time for a new icemaker. In most cases, it’s more economical to replace the complete icemaker assembly than to replace a major component like the mold.
1. Add colorful tile for personality Brighten up a neutral bathroom with brightly colored tile. If tiling your entire bathroom is out of the question, mix and match tile colors above the sink or bathtub.
2. Revitalize your cabinetry Give life to old cabinets by restaining, painting or refacing them. Or replace them altogether with new cabinets. 3. Change your light fixtures Swap out your old light fixtures for newer ones that allow the option of having softer light for those relaxing evenings in the tub as well as brighter light for getting ready in the morning. 4. Replace your plumbing fixtures Nothing dates a bathroom like a dingy, basic 1970s chrome faucet. Today's faucets have become the inspiration for an entire bathroom. 5. Try a new wall treatment The simplest-and most inexpensive-way to update any room is to tackle those walls. The small space is the perfect place to try a bold color .
A good place to check on a regular basis for leaks is under the kitchen sink.Many things can go wrong down there and any amount of moisture can cause big problems. The problems include mold which can grow behind the cabinet if a leak occurs in the cabinet. Trust me water inside the cabinet and you have a great potential for mold behind the cabinet.If you have wood flooring, the water can be absorbed by the wood and cause it to warp or become molding.So you need to check in areas like ; the drain hose from the dishwasher, around the drain or just beneath the faucet. In some cases the older metal pipes will rust through and allow for water to slowly drip causing these problems.
If you see water spots on the ceiling below the tub or shower you probably are going to blame the drain or the water supply line.Sure those can be the problem but I have found that many times it has nothing to do with the plumbing. The first thing to check is the caulking around the tub where it meets the wall and where it meets the floor.If the caulking is pulling away, then that very well could be the source of the problem. Solving that issue requires you to remove the old caulk and apply new. If that does not solve the problem, look for cracks in the ceramic tile wall. Those cracks will allow water to get behind the wall and leak on the ceiling below. Another area to make sure to caulk is around the plates of the faucet handles.
Don’t replace . . . refurbish. That seems to be one of the themes at this years Home and Garden Shows. I found two things that you might consider for the kitchen.Tired of your of your old countertops?You can have a granite overlay applied to the existing countertop for less money then replacing the entire countertop.How about your cabinets are they tired and outdated?You can replace all the cabinets or you can replace the doors with a melamine facing to them and clad the perimeter of the cabinet box with Formica.There is another option that I saw at the local home show. They come into the home and paint out the box perimeter of the cabinet and then install matching painted maple doors to the cabinet.WOW!It really updates the kitchen at fraction of the price to replacing and is less expensive then the clad cabinet doors.
For homes that are 50 to 60 years old or even older here is a problem you may have to tackle.The problem is your soil pipe or waster line is made of cast iron.Over all of these years it may begin to rust from the inside out.Small pin holes develop and in some cases sewer gas enters the home.A drip is one thing but a build up of methane gas in your home dangerous and this problem needs your attention...Chances are if the pipe is rusting through in one area in problem is also corroded in other areas.You can tap on the pipe with a small hammer to check for stability of the pipe.If the pipe is stable you can make a temporary repair using PC 4 .It is epoxy putty which will patch the hole.Chances are the whole pipe or a part of the pipe will need to be replaced.
If you have a corian sink, solid surface sink bowl or a stainless steel sink you may have problems getting them clean. That’s right stainless steel does stain and can be difficult to clean. Bar Keeper’s Friend is an excellent cleaner for this project. It contains Oxalic acid which sounds scarier then it should.It is a powder that is sprinkled on to a moist surface and then use a little elbow grease and scrub away.This is very effective at removing some food dye stains that you may experience with a solid surface sink. It is also a great way to remove stains from the stainless steel bowl.
Well we go the super bowl behind us and it seems the waste treatments plants survived again. Several years ago a story came up about how the half time break in the game could overload our sewage system. Yeah I know something else you can worry about but seriously how big of a deal is the half time flush. Outside of the last episode of Mash the Super Bowl halftime breaks records on an annual basis for the most toilets flushed in a short period of time. Just think what was going on last night while you watched the game. The estimates are that 90 million toilets got flushed during halftime. That is equivalent to0 the Niagara Falls volume for an entire half an hour. That is a lot of water.
If you have water dripping out of the exhaust fan in your bathroom or water dripping off to the side of the vent onto the ceiling you got a problem.The problem in this case is the fan is pulling warm moist air into the steel exhaust pipe that is sitting in a cold attic. We all know cold and hot do not mix. So the moist warm air is in the pipe but the pipe is very cold and the cold squeezes the water right out of the warm air.To fix the problem the pipe has to be insulated to eliminate the temperature difference between the pipe and the air inside the pipe.Fiberglass insulation wrapped around the pipe will eliminate the problem, that creates the buffer.
If you notice a sewer smell inside your home, especially in the bathroom area, take a look at the base of the toilet. And if you're getting a strong odor there, what's going on is the seal between the pipe and toilet. Also another thing you might notice, if you vinyl tile, it could be curling up from moisture, ceramic tile could be stained, wood floors could actually be raised, the wood floor itself. So, how do you replace the seal? The first thing you need to do is you need to remove the closet of the toilet. You're going to have to flush the toilet, turn off the water, remove two bolts, and remove the closet. The, at the base of the toilet, you're going to see a bolt back here. You're going to find one on each side. After you remove those, this whole base of the toilet will remove. And what's going to be exposed is the pipe and the wax ring. Go to the hardware store, you're going to have a couple of choices of wax rings. The first thing you're going to have is a standard wax ring. Now I'm not a big fan of this. It's a good wax ring and everything, but the advantage of the one that I have here is that there's a snout. And this snout will be centered into the center of the pipe, so there won't be any shifting. It's also reinforced through the wax. There's a band that's going to keep it from maybe cracking a little bit easier. Also with this package comes the replacement bolts, because there could be a lot of corrosion on those bolts. So, to eliminate that sewer smell, and leaks at the base of the toilet, it's as simple as a wax seal.
The toilet that does not flush with lots of gusto can usually be repaired by checking these three areas.#1 Make sure there is plenty of water in the closet of the tank and that it is being moved with force to the bowl. The water level should be slightly lower then the top of the over flow pipe.It is just gravity so the water needs to rush from closet to the bowl through small holes under the rim of the toilet bowl. If clogged clean out with small drill bit. #2 toilet needs air from vent to flush.The vacuum hole maybe limed up.Pour a bottle of CLR into the toilet and allow it to sit overnight and then flush the toilet.#3 the drain in the toilet could be blocked.Use a toilet snake and see if you can remove the blockage.
Lot of cooking and kitchen cleanup going on this time of year so here are some tip for properly using your garbage disposal.
insert garbage loosely. If you pack in too much at once, you can jam the disposal.
use a strong flow of cold water & keep the garbage disposer running at least 30 seconds after noise of grinding has stopped to flush all food particles through the drain line.
always use cold water when operating the disposer to solidify fatty & greasy waste so they will be chopped up & flushed down the drain.
do put small bones through; they help to scour the sides of the grinding chamber.
Only put a small amount of fibrous foods (celery, chard, asparagus ends, etc.) at a time through the garbage disposer w/ full water flow. If the drain line is long & quite horizontal, fibrous foods or too much garbage at one time can clog the line.
Do not put uncooked fat off meat into the garbage disposer as it may clog. Don't pour liquid fats down line; solidify in empty tin can in refrigerator & dispose in the trash instead.w/ a continuous-feed model, use the cover as directed to protect yourself when grinding bones or fruit pits--small particles could possible be ejected by the force of disposer
This past weekend we had a call asking about an easy way to seal tile and grout.You never need to seal ceramic or porcelain tile because it is glazed and water can not penetrate this tile.Grout is another story, as it needs to be sealed.In fact, when sealing the grout the excess should be wiped off the tile.Here is the easy part, there is a grout sealer named One Step Grout Sealer.This sealer will keep your grout sealed for 15 years and you do not have to wipe it off the tile.The excess sealer simply evaporates from the tile and requires no wiping.To apply you will not have to crawl along the floor to apply the product.Just spray along the grout lines and you are done.The sealer penetrates the grout and provides protection to the grout from stainsand spills.
For years there have been basically two types of grouting; cement based and epoxy base. Cement base grouts have problems with staining and being brittle. Epoxy base grouts are very hard to wipe off the tiles surface.There is a new type of grout that you may find helpful with your next tiling project called Quartz Lock Grout. This grout is priced very close to the epoxy grout and is a quartz urethane grout that is stain resistant and is easier to apply then any grout on the market. This product can be used for all tile installations both indoor and out.The Quartz grout is premixed, self sealing, chemical and mildew resistant and it is non-fading. The grout is also semi flexible after it has dried and is highly crack resistant and low shrinking.If you are like me you always have leftovers when finishing a project and the Quartz grout can be saved for the next project.
One project we all seem to tackle occasionally is recaulking the bathtub.
One project we all seem to tackle occasionally is recaulking the bathtub. An awful lot of us like to use the silicone. We've heard great things about it. It comes with a 50 year warranty. It's very flexible.
But I got to tell you, it's a wonderful calking, but it is difficult to apply. Once you get a little blurb of this, you're stuck with it. you can't smoothe it out, it's like chewing gum.
What I always like to recommend is an acrylic, siliconized calking. This particular calking, I mean 35 years it's warranted, and it's water soluable. So, if you get a little bump in the calking, simply take your finger, dip it in a glass of water, or a bowl of water and you can smoothe it right out.
I am sure that you have seen some of the new type rainfall shower heads.
I am sure that you have seen some of the new type rainfall shower heads.Yesterday I installed one and it is pretty easy to do.They come with a 9 inch adjustable extension arm so that you can get the shower head out into the shower area. The connection from the arm to the extension is ½” pipe. Use some pipe tape around the threads and screw on the new shower head. Make sure you protect the chrome on the shower head from the wrench with a cloth between the jaws and the nut. Works really good and feels different because you are not getting pelted by water like an old shower head. Cost about 30 bucks and a half hour of time.
More and more people are installing grab bars in the shower area
More and more people are installing grab bars in the shower area.In most cases in is very difficult to secure the bar with more then 1 screw because of the way the flange is set up or that the second anchoring stud is in the wrong place.A listener recently e mailed me regarding a product by Moen called Secure mount Grab Bar. WOW!This is great!Moen has a patented flange design so that you can get 3 screws through the flange and into the stud with no problems, which makes for a sturdier bar.If the stud spacing does not work out, they offer a Secure Mount Hardware kit. It is a special anchoring device that is inserted into the wall that spreads pressure across 3½” and will tightly secure the bar with no studs or blocking. I have a link on my website on my written tip sheets talking about this grab bar.
I received plenty of questions regarding the toilet not properly flushing.
I received plenty of questions regarding the toilet not properly flushing.I responded that it is rarely a blockage in the trap but a lack of water force coming into the bowl from the closet.To solve this issue open up the ports under the rim of the toilet bowl.There is also another item to look at and that is the vacuum hole at the base of the toilet.This hole supplies the air venting needs of the toilet and if this becomes calcified the waste will not be removed from the bowl.This can easily be solved with a bottle of CLR.CLR is a mild acid that can be poured into the toilet bowl at night and allowed to sit until the following morning. Your next step is to simply flush your problem away.
DO clean up spills immediately to minimize damage to your stone.
DO use trivets or mats under hot dishes and cookware.
DO use place mats under china, ceramics, silver and other objects that can scratch your stone's surface.
DO use coasters under glasses, especially if they contain alcohol or citrus juices.
DON'T wait to clean up spills on stone.
DON'T use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners or tub cleaners.
DON'T use vinegar, bleach, ammonia or other general-purpose cleaners.
DON'T use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or soft cleansers.
DON'T use alkaline cleaners not specifically formulated for stone.
DON'T use scouring powders and abrasives because they will scratch the surface.
Care Instructions for Slate:
For cleaning of grease, oil, dirt, dry soil and soap scum:
Mask off and protect any baseboards or adjacent areas to avoid splashing and overspray onto surfaces not intended to be treated.
Sweep or dust mop loose dirt and debris.
Strip off all topical finishes such as waxes and coatings.
Prepare a solution of cleaner mixed with warm or hot water as suggested below:
• Medium Duty Usage — Mix 1 part cleaner to 4 parts of water.
• Heavy Duty Usage — Mix 1 part cleaner to 2 parts of water.
Apply using a low-pressure chemical-resistant sprayer, sponge or mop.
Agitate well using a stiff nylon bristle scrub brush, stiff bristle push broom or a weighted floor machine at 110 lbs.-140 lbs., 175 rpm, fitted with a scrub brush attachment. Some softer slate may not require as much weight on the floor machine, up to 90-110 lbs. may be sufficient. Test first, in an inconspicuous area, to insure that the slate surface is not being damaged.
Rinse well with clean water and mop, sponge or wet vacuum to remove the remaining cleaning solution. A hard surface extraction wand and portable or truck mounted extraction machine may be used.
Repeat the rinsing and wet vacuum process to insure that all dirt, soil and cleaner residue have been removed.
To remove deep or stubborn oil stains, let the surface dry and use professional stain remover:
Apply a ¼ inch thick coat of oil stain remover to the oil stained area. Insure that Oil Stain Remover covers an area 1” to 2” beyond the stained area for the purpose of containment.
Allow 2-3 days for the Oil Stain Remover to dry to a powder.
Sweep and wipe up dried powder and evaluate the stained area for removal.
Repeat process if needed.
Remove any remaining Oil Stain Remover using mineral spirits.
For removal of efflorescence, grout haze, salts, mineral deposits and all other calcium-based stains (acidic cleaning):
Test in an inconspicuous area, as some materials are acid sensitive and may etch when acidic cleaners are applied.
Mask off and protect any baseboards or adjacent areas to avoid splashing and overspray onto surfaces not intended to be treated. This may damage stainless steel and other surfaces.
Sweep or dust mop loose dirt and debris.
Strip off all wax, acrylic, urethane and all topical finishes.
Prepare a solution of Restore™ mixed with warm or hot water as suggested below:
Medium Duty Usage — Mix 1 part of cleaner to 4 parts of water.
Heavy Duty Usage — Mix 1 part of cleaner to 1 part of water.
Liberally apply using a low-pressure chemical-resistant sprayer, sponge or mop.
Agitate well using a stiff nylon bristle scrub brush, stiff bristle push broom or a weighted floor machine at 110 lbs.-140 lbs., 175 rpm, fitted with a scrub brush attachment. Some softer slate may not require as much weight on the floor machine, up to 90-110 lbs. may be sufficient. Test first, in an inconspicuous area, to insure that the slate surface is not being damaged.
Rinse well with clean water and mop, sponge or wet vacuum to remove the remaining solution. A hard surface extraction wand and portable or truck mounted extraction machine may be used.
Repeat the rinsing and wet vacuum process to insure that all dirt, soil and cleaner residue have been removed. Thoroughly rinse all metal surfaces.
Sealing & Protecting:
Natural stone surfaces must be sealed to prevent or minimize staining. Leaving natural stone untreated may greatly hinder the complete removal of stains in the future. The following suggestions are for impregnating the stone and will allow the stone to breathe. Allow new installations to cure for 72 hours prior to applying sealer.
For a natural looking protector on interior and exterior surfaces (heavy duty protection, water and oil repellency):
Sweep or vacuum all dust, dirt and debris.
Mask off and protect any baseboards or adjacent areas to avoid splashing and overspray onto surfaces not intended to be treated.
Insure that surface is clean and residue-free.
Sealers may be applied to damp surfaces one hour after standing water has been removed.
Liberally apply an even coat of sealer using a low-pressure chemical-resistant sprayer, roller or brush.
Allow sealer to penetrate the surface for 20-30 minutes. During this time, distribute excess over entire area to insure even penetration. Wipe off any remaining sealer prior to drying on the surface.
A second coat may be needed for porous, absorbent surfaces and should be applied 30-40 minutes after initial application as directed above.
A minimum of 30 minutes after final application, wipe entire surface with a towel dampened with sealer to remove any residue and excess sealer, if needed.
A full cure is achieved after 24-72 hours; foot traffic may begin in 6-8 hours. Cover with red rosin paper, if foot traffic must resume before the recommended time periods have passed.
Expected coverage is 600-800 sq. ft. per gallon.
Re-application of a heavy duty stone sealer:
A 3-5 year re-application is needed for interior surfaces.
A 1-3 year re-application is needed for exterior surfaces.
© 2012
