If your remodeling and order home how are you going to treat the lead base paint problem
If you are remodeling your home this year and the home was built prior to 1978 it probably has lead base paint in the home. Lead base paint becomes a hazard when it is ingested by breathing the fumes or eating or breathing dust particles. My point is this, you should not sand or mechanically remove lead base paint. Using a paint stripper is time consuming and expensive so you might consider using an encapsulating paint approved for use over lead paint. Lead Stop is a product that seals and blocks in lead base paints. This is a long lasting barrier that encapsulates lead paint and prevents the danger of peeling lead base paint. You apply two coats of Lead stop and allow to dry the coverage is minimal only 125 sq ft. to a gallon but is warranted for 50 years.
When painting a room edging is an important part of the process. When trim, wee tape, we roll and sometimes recoat. I think one of the coolest and easiest tools to use when painting is the square pad edger that has the little wheels on it. Sure it can get messy and maybe not perform well if you’re in a hurry but if you take your time it will save you time. To use this tool. Coat the pad with a thin layer of paint and put the rollers onto the door frame, or crown molding or chair molding whatever you trimming out. Do not apply a lot of pressure just let it glide across the wall and watch what a smooth line of paint it creates. Sometimes you might have to tilt it a bit to match up against the molding. All it all it is a great tool.
Painting a room is a project many DIY”ers will tackle themselves. So here are some tips. Pour out enough paint into the roller tray to at least cover the bottom of the roller tray. Roll the roller into the paint until you coat the entire roller. Roll off any excess paint
Start on the upper half of the wall and make diagonal strokes to make a large "W". Now go back over the "W" to fill it in. Work from the top of the wall, down. Continue painting from the wet edge of the paint into the unpainted wall. If you allow a section to dry before painting the area next to it, lap marks may result. Keep painting until you reach a natural stopping point, such as a corner or a door frame.
Once the roller starts making lots of sticky noise, it is time to reload it with more paint.
Have you ever found yourself painting a room and about half way through the project you realize that you are going to run out of paint? Have you considered the probability of the new paint matching the other paint exactly so that you can’t tell the difference? There is a risk, the fact remains that paint products, tint products, and even tinting equipment, all operate within certain tolerance levels. This means that there is a possibility that cans of paint bought at different times may not match exactly. When you realize that you will not have enough paint to complete a full coat over the entire space, stop at a natural break, such as a corner, window or door opening. Then go purchase additional product. If you’re painting the final coat and you anticipate that you may need more paint mix the two paints together.
Many older homes with the original windows are the wood double hung type.
Many older homes with the original windows are the wood double hung type. Over the years many of these windows accumulate many layers of paint on the windows. In some cases these windows no longer open because they are literally painted shut. So here is an idea on how to free the stuck windows.
With a utility knife, score the paint between the sash and the window frame. Next insert putty knife along your scored edge and tap it carefully with a wood or rubber mallet. You can use a hammer, but be careful not to bang too hard with any tool, especially in cold weather, or you could crack the window. There is also a window repair tool that is in the shape of a spade with metal teeth on the side which will work like a saw blade.
When our homes transition from warm and moist to cool and dry (seasonal changes) things begin to happen.
One area that may be affected is the joint tape on the dry wall. The problem is usually with the tape against the ceiling. As the home's environment dries out paper and wood may shrink. As the joint tape shrinks it becomes loose from the dry wall. So here is a quick fix to the problem. Using Elmer’s glue under the unattached area will stick it back to the wall. Applying a warm moist towel may make the tape more pliable. After it is glued to the drywall a coat of joint compound will hide the seam. Feather edge the compound out into the wall area. Allow to dry, then sand and prime.
So many things come in aerosol form from paint, to glue, to expandable foam and even caulking so here are some safety considerations. Never pitch and aerosol can in a fire even if it is empty. Never use an aerosol container in temperatures that exceed 120 degrees and that includes storage. Always use these products in a well-ventilated area. Keep the spray head clean by turning upside down and depressing the spray head. Never insert a nail or pin into the spray head. Never work near an open flame or pilot light and certainly do not smoke when using. Always keep the container away from children and never puncture the container. It never hurts to review common sense safety procedures when using an aerosol container.
Unique spray paint that comes in several colors and looks like a decorative stone finish.
Spray paint comes in many different types including a latex spray paint but one of the really unique ones is Stone texture spray paint. This comes in several colors and looks like a decorative stone finish. I have used this on many items over the years but the one I just completed really turned out great. I had some old large plastic gardening pots that looked like clay. I cleaned them up and used some stone texture spray paint on them. Wow! They now look just like a stone container. It is easy to use; just clean the surface and position the can about 18” from the items and have at it. The texture paint comes out with more force than regular spray paint but that should not be an issue.
Homes that are over 40 years of age . . . always test for lead paint
When painting and older home preparation of the surface is the key to the project being a success. Homes that are over 40 years of age probably contain some lead base paint. If the home contains lead base paint you should not use a heat gun to remove the old paint before painting. The fact is you should also not sand or scrape the old lead base paint. I recommend that you strip the old paint with a product like Smart Strip. This stripper will remove up to 15 coats of paint. To test for the presence of lead paint, purchase a test swab from the hardware store. Since the lead base paint is probably several layers below the final coat of paint, use a razor knife and cut through several of the layers of paint and test with the swab. Rub the swab over the paint and if it turns pink …lead is present.
Many of you when purchasing outdoor wood furniture like to keep the wood look by staining or sealing the wood.This is a wonderful idea as long as you use a sealer and not a varnish.Varnish is not very resistant to UV rays of the sun and will blister in a short period of time.As the years go by you might want to paint the furniture. The question is how to prepare a sealed piece of wood furniture for painting?You first simply wash it down with soap and water and make sure it is clean and allow drying for 24 hours.The next step is to lightly sand the surface with a finishing sandpaper unless the grain has risen then use a medium grit. I recommend an oil base primer and a satin or semi gloss enamel paint for the finish coat.
You may or may not have much luck removing wallpaper it really depends on how the wall beneath the paper was prepared.Unsealed drywall that has been papered is almost impossible to remove but a well primed and sized wall should not be difficult to remove the paper.On vinyl paper it is important to first score the paper with a paper Tiger.This tool punctures small holes in the paper so that a paper adhesive remover can reach the adhesive.After the holes have penetrated the paper apply DIF, Piranha or Fabric Softener to the wall paper.Give it about twenty minutes to break down the adhesive and then remove with a wall paper scraper.The scraper is a 4” razor blade that should lift the paper off the wall. Make sure to reapply to remove all the remaining glue before painting.
Ever wonder why some paint cost $12 a gallon and other paint cost $35 a gallon.It all has to do with the qualities of the paints components.Basically there are 4 major components to paint; solvents, binders, pigments and additives.Solvents or carriers are usually, water for latex paint or petro chemicals for oil base paints.Water base paints are less expensive then oil base paints.BINDERS are what hold the mixture together and help it adhere to the surface.Less expensive paint may peel or the film may break down with inferior binders. Pigments are the third ingredient and are powders made from minerals that give the paint the color. If these pigments are not finely ground the paint will fade faster then normal. Additives are mixed in for many purposes are often missing in less expensive paint. Additives that allow the paint to dry smoother, resists mildew and make it more scrub able.
When painting a room do you paint the trim or the wall first? Most professional painters will paint the wall first, then circle around and paint the trim.Since they are skilled painters trim work is not difficult.There really is no right or wrong answer to that question but I recommend that most DIY’ers do the trim first and then the walls. By painting the trim first it is easier to sand, prepare and paint all the details that can be found on pieces of trim. After the trim has been painted, allow it to dry, the area can then be masked off and you can paint the wall.If paint was splattered onto the trim it will usually be water base paint and can be easily removed off the oil base trim paint with Goof off.
Color psychology can help you choose paint colors that create the right mood in a room, affecting your feelings.
Blue, which often ranks at the top of surveys exploring “favorite” colors, has been shown to slow pulse rate and lower body temperature, perfect for bedrooms.
Green, has a soothing effect, it also represents renewal, youth, and vigor.Good for bedrooms and dining rooms.
Red is energy and excitement, actually raising the blood pressure and making the heart beat faster. Because it is associated with desire and passion, it’s a perfect paint color for dining rooms and adult bedrooms but wrong for children’s rooms.
Yellow is a great interior paint color. Like sunshine, it imparts happiness, hope, and optimism. Studies have shown that the brain actually releases more serotonin when the eye takes in yellow – creating positive psychological vibes.
Orange is a happy color, too. More attention-getting than yellow, orange has an energy and warmth about it. Orange is clearly not the color of calm, so it’s best to bypass it when painting a bedroom.
Purple is a tricky paint color wherever it’s used, but it’s the overwhelming favorite of adolescent girls
When using varnish the common problems are runs and sags, brush marks, air bubbles and dust. To eliminate runs and sags arrange the lighting so that you are always brushing into reflected light.This will allow you to see problem areas before they occur.Brush marks can be reduced by thinning the coating about 10%.All solvent based varnishes can be thinned with paint thinner regardless what the can states. Air bubbles are caused by shaking the varnish or too much pressure on the brush during application.Thinning again helps with this problem.It will slow the drying time of the varnish and allow bubbles to surface.Light pressure on the brush also helps. Dust is the number one problem so work in a clean room.Before you start your project wet mop the floor and be sure the brush is clean.Use a tack cloth across the surface before applying the varnish.
If your project is painting a ceiling or removing the popcorn finish from the ceiling you need to protect the walls and wood work from drips and debris. Purchase some blue Painters masking tape.This tape will not harm the painted surface on the wall.This tape can also be allowed to stay on the wall up to 14 days without damaging the wall.Apply the tape to the top of the wall as close to the ceiling as possible. Slip the edge of the plastic sheeting under the open tape and press the tape to the plastic. The sheeting will then drape down the wall covering it and the woodwork.This can also be use to create a barrier between two rooms to control dust and fumes from entering another room.
So you are going to do a little interior painting. The color you chose may depend on how many coats you will need to apply. If you are applying a light color over a light or dark color you should need no more then two coats.If you are choosing a dark or bold color which is often used for accent walls you may find yourself applying multiple coats of paints.That’s right dark colors even applied over a light color does not cover all that well.The reason is the amount of Titanium dioxide in the can of dark colors. Titanium dioxide is a brightener and also helps in coverage….with the dark colors there is less titanium dioxide in the can which means more coats of paint.To help use a primer that is tinted to a dark shade of gray.
Cash is tight so here are some suggestions to give your house a little pizzazz according to the Paint Quality Institute.
Idea #1:Instead of painting an entire room, consider painting just one wall in a different color. A so-called accent wall can add visual interest to any space.
Idea #2: Paint the area above (or below) a chair rail. If your home is blessed with chair rails, think about repainting just the wall area above or below the rail. The natural break created by the trim provides a convenient boundary for the new paint color.
Idea #3: Paint just the interior windows and trim. Another option is to stick with your wall color, but paint your windows, molding, and trim. This can produce dramatic change in almost any room.
Idea #4: Paint the front door. Ask any realtor and he or she will tell you that the front entrance is what creates the first impression about a home.
Idea #5: Paint just a few exterior architectural details. Even if you don’t have to paint your home exterior for maintenance reasons, you might want to consider painting a few architectural details for appearance sake. Shutters are one possibility.
Adding a fresh coat of paint to the exterior of your home is one the most popular home improvement projects this time of year. Painting not only increases your home’s curb appeal, it also helps protect the wood exterior of your home.A good paint job should last 5-10 years. The most obvious sign that you’re home’s exterior needs a fresh coat of paint is peeling. Before you paint: Consider the type of paint you want and how much you’ll need: It is wise to paint your home in shades that will compliment neighboring houses. Prep your home: Insufficient preparation is the most common reason for exterior paint to fail. A properly prepared surface gets the best results from your paint project. Before starting an exterior paint job, eliminate any existing paint problems. Paint that’s peeling, cracking, or blistering often signals larger problems and needs to be corrected.
Picking a paint color is tough enough but picking the sheen to the paint can be confusing. Flat paint has the dullest sheen. It’s best to use on new drywall or in low activity areas like; living rooms, dining rooms and ceilings. Eggshell or (sometimes called satin or low luster) paint has a bit more sheen. It works well in kid’s rooms and hallways where the walls will require periodic cleaning. Semi-gloss paint has even more shine and reflective qualities then the eggshell and is great for kitchens and baths where moisture and cleanup are major considerations. Gloss paint is just that- glossy. It has the highest shine factor and should be limited to very high traffic areas. It is best used on cabinet doors, trim or small areas.
If your entry door is wood, fiberglass or metal and faces the west or south there is a good chance that you will find yourself painting that door sooner then you want to.To prepare the door for painting I recommend lightly sanding the surface and removing the residue with a damp sponge.Stripping all of the paint off a metal door is best if there are multiple layers of paint on the surface.You can then apply and oil or acrylic base primer…. I still prefer oil. The finish coat can be an acrylic as this will hold up better to the direct sunlight.Sherwin Williams Duration paint or their Super Paint will give you and outstanding finish.If you have used a primer 1 coat is generally enough unless you are using a dark finish coat.
There has been a lot of water damage to ceilings this year because of the rain and ice dams.If you have a ceiling and there is a brown water stain on it some steps need to be taken before painting.If you paint directly over a water stain the stain will bleed through the paint.A special primer needs to be applied in order to set the stain and keep it from bleeding through the finish coat of paint.If the water stain is new (about30 days old)I recommend a shellac base primer like Bin Primer sealer. If the stain is old, a stain blocker primer that is water base will work.For small stains these primers can be purchased in an aerosol can. They have an inverted spray head so they are easy to apply.
If you want a good varnished finish make sure the environment is dust free. That means is you have been sanding make sure your clothes and the brush you are about to use are dust free.Use a vacuum to remove dust from the floor and wood and make sure the dust is not being blown into the air of the room that you are working. When applying the varnish use a light that will produce a glare on the working surface. This will allow you to see and runs or sagging in the clear finish. A bristle brush will allow for slight ridges in the varnish.Using a foam brush will leave ridges on the edge of the foam brush.Slight thinning and brushing out the varnish will help solve this problem.Eliminate air bubbles in the finish by never shaking a can of varnish before application.
Paint is a valuable ally that can help protect and rejuvenate your home’s exterior. No matter how nice the interior people base their first impressions on your home before they ever walk inside. “The spring or early summer is a perfect time to look for early signs of paint problems. Some paint problems may be caused by using a low quality paint, not preparing the surface properly or painting when it’s too hot or cold,” Debbie Zimmer, paint and color expert with the Paint Quality Institute explains. No matter what the cause a quick inspection, of those painted outside areas to identify any potential problems could prove very useful in making valuable corrections before your minor paint problem becomes a larger issue. Blistering:Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion and lifting of the paint from the underlying surface.
Possible Cause
Painting a warm surface in direct sunlight
Moisture escaping through the exterior walls
Exposure of latex paint film to dew, high humidity or rain shortly after paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation
Solution
-If blisters go down to the substrate, try to remove the source of moisture.
-If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate, remove them by scraping, then sanding; prime any bare wood and repaint with a quality exterior paint.
Paint is a valuable ally that can help protect and rejuvenate your home’s exterior. No matter how nice the interior people base their first impressions on your home before they ever walk inside. “The spring or early summer is a perfect time to look for early signs of paint problems. Some paint problems may be caused by using a low quality paint, not preparing the surface properly or painting when it’s too hot or cold,” Debbie Zimmer, paint and color expert with the Paint Quality Institute explains. No matter what the cause a quick inspection, of those painted outside areas to identify any potential problems could prove very useful in making valuable corrections before your minor paint problem becomes a larger issue.
Cracking and FlakingThe splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat, can lead to complete failure of the paint. Early on the problem appears as hairline cracks; later flaking of paint occurs.
Possible Cause
Over-thinning the paint or spreading it too thin
Use of a low quality paint that has inadequate flexibility
Painting when it is too cold or too warm, the paint will dry too fast
Solution
-If the paint is tightly adhered to the surface, lightly feather the edges, prime and paint
-If the cracking is all the way down to the surface, then the paint should be removed. Old flaking paint may contain lead, so precautions for lead paint should be followed.
If you have been doing a little interior painting there is a good chance that you have a drop or two of paint in an area where the paint is not intended. Well. Here is a great tip for all kinds of paint spills.If the paint is spilled on carpet or wood flooring quickly remove with a product called Krud Kutter it works the best.Now if the paint splatters have dried that is another issue.If you are painting with water base paints and the droplets have dried on wood flooring (which is normally protected with a solvent based urethane ) use a product like OOPs to remove the droppings.This is very safe and will not hurt the finish of the wood floors but will remove the paint. This also works well of paint drops that have dried on carpet.
If you are remodeling or renovating a home with lead based paint, take precautions. Before you begin to scrape off paint or tear down walls have the area tested for lead based paints. If the home was built before 1970 your home could contain lead.
If lead paint is present; never use a belt sander, propane torch, heat gun, scraper or sandpaper. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and can remain in your home for a long time. Make sure to seal off the area, including HVAC vents or move your family to another location.
Make sure to follow other safety measures to reduce lead hazards by calling 1 800 4242 Lead and ask for the brochure called Reducing Lead hazards when remodeling your home.
A big trend nowadays is dressing up the garage and a lot of people find themselves wanting to paint a garage floor, or stain a garage floor. However, in a lot of cases, there's already a coating on the garage floor, such as here. You can see this coating right on top of the cement, and what you also see is that it's beginning to chip and peel. So if you decide to paint the garage floor with a regular type paint, or an epoxy, and I'd certainly recommend the epoxy, step one is you've got to remove that previous coating, because if you don't, you're only painting the coating, which is already failing. Now, how would you remove something like that? You can either grind it off or sand it off, I'd stay away from the liquid strippers. If you do not have a coating on there, there's a good chance that you have some oil. If you have any oil or tar, you're going to have to remove that before staining or painting. Remember, preparation is the always the key. Also, you can see how tightly troweled that concrete is? That means you're going to need to clean and etch it. You can etch it with a type of masonry etcher. I'd stay away from the acid bases. This very, very safe, yet does the same type of work. Again preparation is the key.
When it comes to using spray paint, you have all kinds of options. For instance, spray paint now comes in a water base. Why water base? Well, little fumes, number one. Number two, it dries rapidly. Most importantly the paint itself doesn't fade. Water-based acrylic paints hold their color longer. Now you also have what they call the fusion paint. Fusion paint is great for plastic. So, if you wanted to paint a plastic mail box, plastic furniture, they do have spray paints that do work on plastic. Of course epoxy is always the stalwart of the spray paint line. This is great for using on cabinetry or refrigerators, ovens, any type of heavy metal appliance, the epoxy spray paints work well. And if you want a little fun, a child's room, you might mask off an area and use this spray paint. This will actually create a chalk board, so it will allow kids to write on the walls, as long as they keep it between the lines. One other thing, it's pretty new, it's called camo. This is for you hunters and fishermen. If you want an ultra flat finish, this comes in several colors from tan, to green, to black, and this is a camo spray paint. The last one I have here is the heat resistant paint. Again, great for grills. Remember when using spray paint, not on a windy day. Shake it up until you hear the ball rolling, and about 18 inches from the surface. That will give you a good application. And again, many choices.
1. Don’t make your final color selection in the store; instead, take color cards home so you can see them right in the space that will be painted.
2. Evaluate the paint colors in daylight and under artificial light at night. Colors can change quite dramatically in different lighting conditions.
3. Remember that colors tend to intensify when applied to a large area. To compensate, it is often wise to choose a lighter value of a color, rather than a darker one.
4. Paints come in a variety of sheen or gloss levels ranging from “high gloss” (the shiniest) to “flat” (virtually no shine). Those with higher gloss reflect more light, so they can make a room look brighter. On the other hand, higher gloss paints also tend to highlight surface imperfections, so if your walls and other surfaces are not in the best of shape, a flat paint might be the better option.
© 2012
