Kitchen cabinets that are just dated you can stain them without stripping the finish
If your kitchen has those old golden oak cabinets and you are just tired of them…you don’t have to replace them, you can stain them. Now to stain them you don’t have strip them to get that new look. Here is how. Sand down the cabinet, going with the grain of the wood (about 150 grit). Then wash the cabinet down with TSP and allow it to dry. Now a apply sealer that is like a glue that will hold the stain. Allow the sealer to dry even though it will still be tacky. Apply a gel stain with a 2” brush and continue to get the desired look. This process will really only work when going from a light to a dark color. Applying a protective finish is the last part of the project.
Gaps between boards are one of the most often registered complaints with a wood floor.
Gaps between boards are one of the most often registered complaints with a wood floor. Homeowner expectations should include the fact that normal gaps will occur during seasons that are dry, most often associated with the heating season. Also, homeowners should be advised that occasional permanent gaps that are not prominent, when normal seasonal gaps close are considered acceptable.
How gaps are addressed and possibly repaired depends on many factors. First, determine which gaps are normal, in that they close seasonally. If the gaps in question are normal then no repair is needed. If the home owner insists on repairing normal gaps, then the customer should be advised that cupping or buckling is likely to occur as normal seasonal expansion over-tightens the flooring. In fact repairing these normal gaps can actually make the floor look worst.
When you install a cedar fence you have a decision to make when it comes to protecting it from the weather. Cedar can be left alone to age naturally but it will turn gray and have black streaks on the surface so it is best to protect it.You have several choices to make when protecting it and they range from stain to paint or just a clear protectant.A clear protectant will keep the cedar color but will quickly break down from the UV rays of the sun and begin to turn silver and gray.Using a stain or a clear with just a slight tint will protect and last much longer then the clear.Solid color stain or paint offers the best protection but you lose the beauty of the natural cedar. So my choice is a slightly tinted clear stain ….it offers good protection and the natural look.
With the economy still being a little on the weak side I am seeing some old time products come back into the lime light. For instance, back in the 70’s and early 80’s people used Antiquing Kits to refinish cabinets and furniture. This was a quick and inexpensive means to create a new and fresh look. Since the one area in our home that always seems to be a focal point, the kitchen and the cabinets are like furniture in this room.New cabinets or refaced cabinets can be expensive and painted cabinets are just a solid color and faux painting takes skill. So we go back in time and redress the Antique kits.The new product is called; Cabinet Transformation and is a viable alternative to just painting the cabinets. The kit gives you a Deglosser for the surface which is step one and then the base coat is applied.A glaze is then applied and partially wiped off before the protective finish is applied. It is a simple cost effective alternative.
Every year I receive calls regarding wood peckers damaging wood siding. So I ask you….why does a wood pecker peck?The answer is for several reasons. A wood peckers rapid drumming is used as a mating call. Second, the pecking creates a hole for a nest, with the wood chips it leaves forming a cushion for the woodpecker’s eggs.
But most of the woodpecker’s pecking is done in search of food. Once the hole is made, the woodpecker’s long tongue shoots into the hole and spears insects on a barb at the tip of its tongue. A sticky saliva on the tongue also helps trap the food.The woodpecker’s toes flair out, enabling it to climb the trunks of trees and stop and feed at any point. A stiff spine in its tail helps support the woodpecker on the tree trunk. Eliminating the food source or changing the environment is the best way to discourage the wood pecker.
Stripping the finish off of furniture can be fun and rewarding. Follow these tips for the best results. Use a throw away brush and lay on a thick coat of stripper.Do not brush the stripper back and forth as this will cause evaporation/ Give the remover plenty of time to work.15 minutes for methylene chloride base and 2 hours for water base strippers. Some strippers contain wax to minimize evaporation but you can lay aluminum foil over the applied stripper to help do the same.The finish will wrinkle and puddle when it is time to be removed. The best tool; a piece of glass about 3x5 and pull the glass to you, with the grain at a 45 degree angle. For carved or irregular surfaces a brass wire brush can be used.
This may sound like a strange problem but we see it often on table tops.A white haze is on the surface of a piece of finished furniture only this time it is a bed headboard.Seems like someone went to sleep with wet hair and was positioned up against the headboard causing the white haze. To solve this problem use a cotton cloth and some non gel toothpaste, dampen the cloth and apply the toothpaste and some baking soda to the cloth. Scrub in a circular motion over the effected area and this will normally remove the haze.You can also purchase a product called Restore A Finish to cover up the area.It comes in 8 colors and you should be able to find the color you need.This is simply applied onto the surface and it will RESTORE the finish.
When using varnish the common problems are runs and sags, brush marks, air bubbles and dust. To eliminate runs and sags arrange the lighting so that you are always brushing into reflected light.This will allow you to see problem areas before they occur.Brush marks can be reduced by thinning the coating about 10%.All solvent based varnishes can be thinned with paint thinner regardless what the can states. Air bubbles are caused by shaking the varnish or too much pressure on the brush during application.Thinning again helps with this problem.It will slow the drying time of the varnish and allow bubbles to surface.Light pressure on the brush also helps. Dust is the number one problem so work in a clean room.Before you start your project wet mop the floor and be sure the brush is clean.Use a tack cloth across the surface before applying the varnish.
On a recent show we talked about saving money by flipping over the deck boards rather then purchasing new decking.That is certainly a way to save money but a listener wrote me a couple of tips that I thought I would pass on to you. First, consider that the boards may have been placed on top of the deck with the best side up which means when you flip the board it may not look so great.He also told me that it takes a lot longer the just flipping the boards.Removal is difficult and he found it best to remove the cent board from underneath if possible the work from the surface of the deck with a wonder bar or claw hammer. Total saving about $400. Time spent flipping 36 boards 2 days.
If you are installing new pressure treated wood on your deck here are a couple things to keep in mind.Yes, you can stain and seal your deck within a few weeks of installation.If you are going to paint or use solid color stain on your deck you need to wait a year before you start that process.When anchoring the wood to the joist I recommend deck screws that are stainless steel or titanium, that will eliminate corrosion.If you encounter bleached lines going across the grain of the wood, that is usually caused by millwork and can be sanded out with a belt sander.Black ink grading stamps can also be sanded out with sandpaper.If you stain and seal the wood with an oil base sealer wait 48 after the deck has been washed or rained on.Acrylic sealers can be used within 2 hours of rain.
Water is a common enemy of all homes; whether it's behind the walls, in the attic, around windows and doors. And this is time to take a walk around your home and inspect the doorways and around window jams, because what you might find is what I found right here. Right at the base of this door jamb you can see that the paint has kind of peeled away. And the wood, though not rotten, is exposed and is beginning to split. So, you need to address that. And in this case I think a little sanding and a coat of paint will take care of the problem. If that wood would be soft and beginning to decay, you'd need to scrape off the loose, decaying wood, and then get an epoxy wood putty. This has a resin and a hardener, two different colors, mix it up to a uniform color, and go ahead and make your patch. Now after you wait 24 hours, this can be sanded, painted, stained, drilled, whatever you like, and it will protect that wood frame. In fact, some of your newer door systems, your entry door systems, the first maybe six inches or eight inches of this door jamb are actually made of composite wood, so that it will not rot.
With all of the cooking oils in the air in the kitchen they make keeping the cabinets clean a tough job.To put them back in the shape you like, you should remove all the knobs and pulls from the cabinet panels.I have found Holloway House wood cleaner does and excellent job of removing the grease and grime from the cabinet surface.It some cases, applying lemon oil or silicone free polish and the chore is complete and in other cases the finish needs help. Several products can help bring the luster back to the cabinets and a product called Quick Shine will help accomplish this task.It is an acrylic resin used to restore wood and vinyl floors but does a great job on cabinets.You might consider dulling this surface with 2/0 steel wool and coating with a new coat of Poly Urethane.
Most hardwood floors nowadays are protected with polyurethane like we have here. Now, one of the things you've got to remember is that even with a polyurethane finish is eventually it's going to wear. And the choice here is to protect this floor before it wears into the stain, otherwise you need to refinish the floor. Well, there's a wonderful product that can protect that floor. This is by Minwax, there's a cleaner and there's a product called Renew. This is an excellent cleaner to use on a wood floor on a regular basis. Simply spray it onto the floor, mop it off. But I want to talk about this product that actually renews the hardwood floor. What you do with this is, clean the floor, now make sure it's a urethane floor. You can do that very easily by taking a droplet of water an putting it on the floor because if it's a wax floor it'll turn white. If it does not, it's a urethane floor. Now, you want to go ahead and use that cleaner, clean the floor. Then spray this particular product on in an "S" pattern. Then use either a painting pad or a wax applicator. This isn't wax. And just spread it across the floor. What this does, it's a clear finish, you can't walk on it for two hours. But it fills the little pores in the urethane finish. It's kind of like giving it another top coat. It will make it more shiny. It'll give it some luster. And people will think you had your floor refinished. It's that easy. You might want to give it a try.
I have been asked many times if you can use linseed oil to protect exterior wood. Usually they state that their father used it all the time on fencing.Of course linseed oil works as a preservative inwood and concrete and is found in many paints and coatings but with today’s technology there are better products to use. Here are a few of the limitations found in plain linseedoil.
Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or doesn't dry at all!!
No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance... UV causes more damage to exposed wood than any other factor, destroying wood fibers and setting it up for attack by mildew, fungus, and insects.
Linseed oil is mildew food....
Linseed oil does not harden sufficiently to offer enough resistance to abrasion to be a suitable deck floor preservative... at least by today's standards.
Difficult to remove from wood... Multiple coats of linseed oil are gummy and difficult to remove
If you have furniture that has blemishes such as: water rings, dull finish or even a cracked or crazed finish use Restore-A- Finish. This product comes in 8 wood stain colors and can give new life to your furniture. This product works with all finishes with the exception of poly urethaned finishes.
If you have an urethaned, or varnished wood door, molding or shelving in your home and it is becoming a little tired looking, here is how to fix it up.You do not need to strip the surface unless you want to change the color of the wood stain.To give the wood surface a fresh look, first clean with mineral spirits and 2/0 steel wool.Wipe the surface clean with a cotton cloth and more mineral spirits.You have now cleaned and dulled the surface and now you can use colored wood putty to fill any dings and dents.To give the wood surface a fresh new look apply a urethane or varnish to the surface. You can choose from flat, satin, semi gloss or gloss finishes.A water base urethane can also be used in this case.It will stay crystal clear for many years and dries rapidly.If you do use a water base make sure to use a synthetic steel wool.
Sweep the deck to remove all leaves and other debris. 1.Liberally apply cleaner using a roller or pump sprayer (wear protective equipment to avoid contact with skin and eyes). If youhave a large deck, work in small sections to make sure the area stays wet at all times. 1.Allow the cleaner to set for approximately 15 minutes. If necessary, 2.If you encounter any grease stains, clean them with a TSP substitute or another mild detergent.
2.After 15 minutes, work the cleaner into the surface using a stiff synthetic-bristle brush. Scrub thoroughly to remove all residue.
3.Use a garden hose with a good stream to completely rinse the cleaner from the wood. You may also use a power washer equipped with a 45-degree tip set at 1200 - 1400 psi. Keep a distance of 8- to 12-inches from the surface and spray with the grain of the wood to avoid damage to the surface of the deck
When the weather is bad outside we track a lot of residue into our homes. Dirt, grit, sand and salt are all abrasives that can dull wood floors in the home.Make sure that you have an all weather mat on the outside of your home and carpet type mat on the inside as this will prevent a lot of the debris from ruining the finish on your wood floor.A soft bristle broom or a vacuum without a beater bar is good for removing grit between the boards. Never use an oil soap or ammonia on wood flooring as this will dull the finish. There are many wood floor cleaners that do not contain harsh chemicals and are very environmentally friendly that I would recommend.Spills and puddles should be wiped from wood floors immediately. Water is the number one problem for wood floors.
One thing is for sure we all need storage space.A great way to help eliminate clutter is by installing permanent shelving.Permanent shelves can be built into virtually any space where storage is needed.The area between a door and a window is often wasted and can be a good location for shelving.A shelving unit can be built out of any 1” dimensional lumber.I would not use particle board as it will sag under heavy weight like books. For heavy loads, like books, a shelving unit should be built from 1x10 or 1x 12 hardwood boards and should not be longer then 48” inches. The shelves are usually supported on the ends by clips or pegs and if additional support is need attach support strips from the underside of the shelves.
Using a little paint thinner and a cotton cloth and elbow grease I began to remove a lot of the grime.
Each night I write a daily tip to share with all of you. My computer sits on a nicely stained wood counter or desk.The past month or so I noticed that the counter was becoming grimy and sticky so I set out to clean it up. Using a little paint thinner and a cotton cloth and elbow grease I began to remove a lot of the grime. I noticed as it began to get cleaned up the finish had several worn spots. At this point I used some 2/0 steel wool and dulled the clear finish without disturbing the stain finish. The next step was to remove the residue with a tack cloth.I was now able to brush on another coat of poly urethane.I did use the solvent based urethane but a water base could be used. Just make sure you use synthetic steel wool.
Rotten wood is an invitation to insects especially termites and needs to be repaired as quickly as possible.
Rotten wood is an invitation to insects especially termites and needs to be repaired as quickly as possible. You can always replace the wood that is rotten but at times that can be difficult.You can also repair the wood by first scraping all of the loose or rotten wood away from the surface.After removing the decayed wood apply a product like Rot Terminator.This product is absorbed into the wood where it hardens the remaining wood fibers. After it has dried I recommend using epoxy wood filler.This filler can be shaped to the desired contours of the wood.This filler can also be sanded, drilled, primed and painted.
Pressure treating white pine for decks and fencing has changed again. The new type of treatment is referred to as MCQ.It is not corrosive to metals as the old Acq pressure treated wood.You still should take precautions when working with pressure treated wood. Always, wear gloves. Pressure treated lumber can have more splinters then non pressure treated wood and remember it is treated with pesticides.I also recommend wearing a filter mask to avoid breathing in sawdust.In fact I recommend using a mask for all wood cutting whether it is pressure treated, MDF or non treated lumber.I also recommend treating the cut ends with the One Time wood sealer.When you cut the wood you will see that the pressure treatment does not penetrate in to the wood very deep.So using the One Time on cut ends and on wood that comes in contact with the ground is a good precaution to take.
Please don't paint your patio furniture!! If you just bought some nice new patio furniture or a picnic table, the absolute worst thing you could do is paint it. The second worst thing you could do is take polyurethane, which is designed for indoor use, and coat your table with it. Within 2-3 years, it will yellow, crack, and pull up. To make it new again, you will have to completely strip your patio furniture. In many cases, paint does the same thing. It's a surface coating and it will crack and peel.- you can sand and feather it, but it will not look like new. Instead of paint or polyurethane, use a clear penetrating type finish. It goes into the wood and actually hardens the wood fibers. You can buy this in a stain - not a linseed - oil stain for outside of homes. Use what they call a philonic oil-type stain. It's resistant to the sun, and it's actually built into the wood. If it looks faded, you simply reapply. No sanding. No stripping. Remember!! Don't paint. Use philonic oil sealer or stain.
It doesn't take long, a couple of years, and you'll look at your cabinets, you'll say they need a little bit of help.
It doesn't take long, a couple of years, and you'll look at your cabinets, you'll say they need a little bit of help. So, let me tell you, step one,and we're not going to talk about re-staining them or painting them, but just kind of cleaning them up. The first thing you might want to do is just remove all of the hardware. In fact, if your cabinets are 10 or 15 years old, you might even think about replacing the hardware. It really will give you a really modern look, a new look and it's very inexpensive to do. Now, to clean these, a lot of dire inside your home is not water soluble, because, well, we've got the range right here, we're cooking and the dirt actually has a little bit of greasy film to it. So, we need to cut that. Of course with a natural wood, you want to be careful how much water you use. If you've got the formica top, cabinets or something like that. A great solution of 50% water and 50% ammonia will at least cut the greasy film. But, you'll probably notice around the hardware where there's dark dirt. And that's going to require something a little bit stronger. My recommendation here, Guardsman makes a wood cleaner and wax remover. I've found this to be very, very effective. It's very, very easy to use. Simply spray it on the cabinetry, let it se a little bit, and then a good cotton cloth and wipe it off. Now to protect that wood, an protect that cabinetry, they also have a product like this. This is a lemon 3 scented polish. The secret here, it's wax-free. Wax gets soft, wax actually promotes that grime. So you want to get something that's wax free.
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